Perhaps you’ve heard in recent years that watches are a good investment, and while they are, enthusiasts will always tell you that the passion and stories of watches are far more important. Seiko is perhaps one of those that are almost exclusively passion-driven, but interestingly enough, paired with unparalleled quality and value for money, even when looking at Seiko compared with Grand Seiko.
Let’s dig into what Seiko is and the pathway they’ve taken to get where they are toda.
The History of Seiko
The Seiko Group Corporation finds its origin all the way back in 1881, founded by Kintarō Hattori in Tokyo. Hattori originally opened a watch and jewelry shop called “K. Hattori” after working in watch shops since the tender age of 13. Back then, most of the equipment needed to produce watches had to be imported, and since Hattori had great connections with the likes of F. Perregaux & Co. and others, his shop became increasingly popular due to rare technology being available.
The origin
The brand released its first in-house pocket watch in 1895. At that time already, the company made their watches entirely at hand. It also produced the first Japanese-made wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. However, the first “Seiko-branded” watch was only produced in 1924.
The rise
Rising above all is Seiko’s influence in the 70s. Before the 70s, most watches produced were mechanical – meaning they would either be powered by the kinetic energy of the wearer wearing the watch, or through winding the crown when considering a hand-wound movement. The Swiss market was at the forefront of the mechanical movements and the entire watch market. Then, Seiko, quite literally, rocked the entire horological world to its core. Not to mention 1969, when Seiko launched the Astron, the world’s first commercial quartz wristwatch. It changed the world because quartz movements cost a penny on the dollar to produce (compared to mechanical movements), they’re vastly more precise (a few seconds per month vs multiple seconds per day), and most people could easily get their hands on a quartz watch.
The premium line
Another thing to consider is that Seiko isn’t the only Seiko. There is also the premium line of the brand, aptly named Grand Seiko. First seen in 1998, Grand Seiko portrays most exploratory finishing methods combined with most technologically innovative movements. Both are still going strong today, and Grand Seiko is on par with some high-end luxury timepieces produced in Europe.
Historically Important Seiko Models
If you’re going to break down the importance of Seiko and what the company is ought to consider the most influential models the brand has ever produced. There are actually too many to mention, however, these are the five most important models since the birth of the company.
Seiko Lord Marvel 5740-8000
Certain watches catch fame due to looks (see a Rolex Rainbow Daytona) while others are all about what’s within. The Lord Marvel 5740-8000 is certainly the latter, as it was the first Seiko to be powered by their Hi-Beat movement, which has become a pillar in both “normal” and Grand Seiko models.
This movement beats at 36,000vph, which is a remarkable feat. A higher beat rate means greater precision and a far smoother seconds hand, something that Grand Seiko has become extremely famous for. The Lord Marvel is, somehow, still affordable and you might be able to pick one up for south of $1,000, and for a historical timepiece, that’s a great deal.
Seiko SKX007
Seiko is perhaps the most famous for its dive watches, particularly its rather capable yet affordable divers. This philosophy is perhaps captured best by the humble SKX007, initially released in 1965 as the first mechanical Seiko diver, the 6217-8000/8001. As time progressed through the years, they kept innovating the model range, introducing new case designs and technical features to finally end up with the SKX007 released in 1996 as the 7S26 series.
The SKX007 is an ISO-certified diver watch, meaning it’s a serious diver. However, unlike the robust divers we come across so often, the SKX was humble in its size, measuring a dainty 42.5mm in diameter – of which a large portion would be the rotating dive bezel. Furthermore, the SKX comes with various bezel color combinations and the all-important jubilee bracelet. To round things off, there is more SKX modding support online than almost any other watch on the planet. All in all, this is simply prime Seiko. Affordable, endearing, and functional.
The Speedtimer
There is no doubt that the chronograph holds a special place in many people’s hearts, especially those with a sporty sense within. The Seiko 6139 chronograph is perhaps one of the most famous Seiko chronographs, initially released in the 70s.
The 6139s came in a wide variety of dials, but besides the alluring looks, the 6139 was Seiko’s first venture into the mechanical chrono world, ensuring its popularity in the future. This watch is certainly not the most desirable Seiko’s on the market, and there are even more desirable contemporary versions, however, when you talk to a Seiko enthusiast, they’ll be sure to mention just how influential this timepiece was.
Seiko in 2023
Moving to the current day, Seiko has gone well and beyond providing enthusiasts and collectors alike with some of the most fun pieces you can think of. With that said, if you have a couple of bucks lying around, here are the two best Seikos you should consider buying in 2023:
Presage Sharp Edged Series
Let’s highlight something from Seiko that isn’t a sports model, but rather a elegant three-hander. The Presage Sharp Edged Series is perhaps one of the most expertly finished watches you can find at the price point.
With a keen focus on dial finishing and case polishing, this line offers plenty of attention-grabbing models such as the SPB227J1, a beautiful gradient red dial offering not only a great visual aspect but a reliable mechanical movement within. You could also choose to go to the next level and get yourself a King Seiko, a branch of the company that is perhaps not as luxurious or expensive as a Grand Seiko but still portrays elevated levels of finish and attention to detail
5 Sports Line
We couldn’t write this article without referencing this line of watches. You get a diver to be daily-worn and that comes in literally more configurations than you can imagine. Mechanical movement within, reasonable price, and plenty of special editions to make you feel special. Perhaps the only drawback is that you probably cannot collect all of these…
This line also recently branched out to include a GMT line as well, truly solidifying itself as the best cost-effective GMT you can get your hands on. You could also opt for one of the field versions that exemplify simplicity combined with understated utilitarianism – giving you exactly what you need with zero frills.
Final Words
Overall, you cannot go wrong with Seiko. It has solidified itself as perhaps the best entry point to the world of watches, and even has some high-end timepieces under the Grand and King Seiko nomenclature to get your luxury fill as well. That said, the watch company is far and beyond best known for its diver and tool watches, as represented by influential models like the SKX and 5 Sports range. Spend 5 minutes on the Seiko website and you’ll be sure to find something that’ll put a smile on your face without leaving too big of a dent in your wallet.
